My life in history: costume curator for the National Trust

Pre-pandemic, much of my time was spent preparing Killerton’s annual fashion exhibition, which mostly draws from the 20,000-plus objects we have stored here. Starting out with items gathered by Paulise de Bush – an enthusiastic collector of both theatrical and historical costumes – it is the largest dress collection owned by the National Trust and has grown considerably over the years. Although I am now planning a new exhibition for 2023, I am also working on the digital face of our collection: writing for our website and preparing items for social media. On top of this, I am producing articles that will inform our volunteers about the collection, so that they can share its stories with visitors.

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What does your curatorial work involve?

Curatorial work usually involves collections management: researching, recording and auditing objects, and preventive conservation – making sure they are properly packed and stored. I commission conservation treatment for objects, which is a really important part of caring for the collection. Doing this makes it easier for us to ensure the items are accessible to all – not just for the visitors who come to Killerton in person, but those who visit our public-facing database. For example, I recently worked through a large collection of shoes – mostly from the wardrobe of one individual – in order to enhance our records. Many of our pieces have great stories to tell, so hopefully we can excite and inspire people about the collection and our work.

There are so many wonderful pieces – gorgeous, luxurious and representative of great skill

What costumes does the collection have?

The collection at Killerton concentrates on Western European fashionable dress and accessories, along with examples of textiles, patterns, needlework tools and equipment. The clothing for men, women and children mostly represents typical dress for day, evening and special occasions from the 18th century to the mid-1970s, but we also have some occupational clothing, such as agricultural workers’ smocks and nurses’ uniforms. In terms of strengths, the collection features some excellent examples of 19th and early-20th century dress, as well as important 18th-century silks and mid-20th century ready-to-wear and designer clothing.

What is your favourite item?

There are so many wonderful pieces. Some are gorgeous, luxurious and representative of great skill, while others are less beautiful, but with amazing stories to tell. One of my favourite items is a patchwork and appliqué coverlet made in 1810, depicting objects that would have surrounded the (probably) young makers in their everyday lives: shoes, bonnets, fans, needlework tools and a ‘Game of Geography’. It very much reflects a girl’s education at that time.

• Read more | Beyond fashion: 6 accessories that reveal changing attitudes in society, from the Georgians to the 20th century

What has been your favourite exhibition to curate?

I’m a Strictly Come Dancing fan, so Shall We Dance – an exhibition of some of our more glamorous ballgowns and evening dress – has to be one of my favourites. I also enjoyed planning our 2018 displays celebrating women’s suffrage, as well as our more recent exhibition, Tree of Life, which not only enabled us to explore designs inspired by trees, but also to demonstrate how trees, wood and their products have been used to make clothing. For the latter, we displayed a selection of items for visitors to handle. It was great to reveal that all of the had been made from tree bark or wood pulp.

How are the costumes preserved?

When funds allow, objects are treated by a professional textile conservator. My colleague Charlotte ensures that each item is meticulously condition-checked before going on public view, with a special mount prepared to display it. This not only ensures the item is properly supported, but that it shows the correct period shape. Preventive conservation is an important part of our work. This includes monitoring for insects such as moths and carpet beetles, which can damage objects both in storage and on display. A basic knowledge of entomology can be a useful curatorial skill!

This article was first published in the Christmas 2021 issue of BBC History Revealed