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Most thinking on the subject of Vesuvius is that it was an active volcano but has been dormant for many years

Costs and money

Costs of necessities are not high: wine by the cup costs between 1 and 15 coins (asses) depending on the quality of the drink. You will need to get your gold and silver coins changed into smaller denominations by a local money changer to pay for goods in asses.

Shopping

Every eight days there is a market in Pompeii. Also look out for the auctions, usually held in the Porticus of Concordia Augusta (Porticus of Augustan Unity), built by the priestess Eumachia in the forum. You should be able to pick up a slave or two here.

Local money changers can make financial arrangements including small loans to tide you over. For larger loans go to moneylenders such as the Sulpicii of Puteoli, who can be repaid in Rome.

Sights and activities

Beast hunts, gladiators and executions are held in the amphitheatre, while Pompeii boasts a theatre and a covered odeon for stage performances. The people of the city have an enthusiasm for gladiatorial combat, as can be seen from the amount of graffiti that records the exploits of these men. You might go to a performance of a mime and, if you are lucky, see some of Rome’s leading actors.

The city is full of children. Many learn to read in the large palaestra (gymnasium) opposite the amphitheatre, which also has its own swimming pool. It’s worth a visit just to see how the inhabitants learn their Latin.

Dangers and annoyances

All visitors to Campania are aware of the low-level dangers of earthquakes. The last big one was 17 years ago, but you will experience tremors.

Most thinking on the subject of mount Vesuvius is that it was an active volcano, like Etna in Sicily, but has been dormant for many years. Building work to restore the city continues and this is likely to be a greater nuisance than the threat of an earthquake – let alone an eruption of Vesuvius.

Sleeping/accommodation

The best bet is to find accommodation in one of Pompeii’s larger inns. Many are located near the gates of the city – try one with outdoor dining and a shaded garden to relax in. Apartments and houses can be rented – only worth it if you’re looking for a longer stay in the city.

Eating

There are numerous bars on most of the major streets that serve up pulses and vegetables. Some may even serve hot food (which is illegal). For classier fare eat in your inn or in one of the dining rooms located in a small holding within the city itself.

Pompeii produces garum – a fish sauce used in most Roman dishes – and you will be able to compare this local variety with that imported from Spain.

Drinking

Every wine can be found in Pompeii, from a cheap, local rot gut, to that of the Sorrento peninsula, to those imported from Spain and the Aegean, to the very highest quality Italian classics such as Falernian.

There are vineyards in the city at which you can try the local wines – if you’re feeling brave! Bars open at the third hour of the day but get busy from midday onwards.

Getting around

Pompeii’s streets are narrow and many are closed off to vehicles altogether. The best way of getting around the city is on foot. If you have baggage, hire a porter or a donkey.

The nearby port gives visitors access to the other cities of the Bay of Naples and the islands off the coast.

Professor Ray Laurence is co-author of The City in the Roman West, c250 BC–c AD 250 (CUP, 2011) and co-editor of Rome, Pompeii and Ostia (OUP, 2011).

This article was first published in the December 2011 issue of BBC History Magazine